Training for Mixed & Ice Climbing Series – Building a Solid Foundation

Written by Ben Carlson of Furnace Industries
Who doesn’t want to climb more?  Who doesn’t want to climb harder?
This eight part series brought to you by Furnace Industries is geared to get you training & ready for the Mixed & Ice climbing season. These to-the-point, no B.S. posts will be running from September through December to get you ready for the ice climbing season.  We’ll use photos and videos to show you the exercise and proper technique with ACE Certified Fitness Trainer and Ice Climber Marian DeWitt. These posts are not for beginners.  We’ll be assuming you know enough about the basics of climbing and working out.

Thacher State Park: Northeast’s Newest Sport Climbing Area

Rock Climbing Thacher State Park

The Northeast’s newest climbing area is officially open! Thacher State Park will become the first public sport climbing crag to officially open in New York State. As many climbers know sport climbing in this part of the country is few and far between. With New Hampshire’s Rumney Rocks long being the staple for sport climbers in this part of the US, there has been quite an excitement & anticipation for Thacher State Park to open up access to sport climbing closer to New York City.

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Finale Ligure: Climbing in the Italian Riviera

Written by Arianna Qira
Written by Arianna Qira

With over 2,000 sport routes Finale Ligure has a lifetime worth of climbing to offer.  This is not a crag you simply go for the weekend, it is a lifestyle.  Finale is the home to families living in vans, a time warp into the past of climbing.  Limestone rock outcrops fill these coastal mountains truly making it a climbing adventure.

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Training for Ice Climbing Season

Roes - Ice Climbing
Written by Ben Carlson of Furnace Industries

Fifteen feet above my last screw, the ice turns to complete shit. Unconsolidated, candled, air-filled, de-laminated mush. No way this crap is gonna take a good stick. I can see the water trickling behind the flow on this late season WI5. The rope hangs from my harness, clear of the ice. Checking in on my placements, I have one mega placement at shoulder level. Hips close to the ice, standing tall, I can feel the back of my ax pressing on my chest. Good feet. Swinging my one tool at the mush, an unsettling crack slams through the icicle just below my feet rattling my nerves and shaking my confidence. A drip of sweat on the tip of my nose. Breathing regains control. Forearms beginning to burn, working my feet up on the front points of my crampons – a little higher, a little higher still – I need to reach what looks like decent ice just out of reach above the mush and get another screw. Reaching. Reaching higher.

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Climbing with Long Hair – 5 ways to deal

Climbing with Long hair
Matt Farrell took this photo of Jenifer Lavelle as she was bouldering “Crackhouse” an 85 ft V8/5.13 problem in Moab, UT

There are accomplishments and feats that set women apart from men, and aside from our good bits, a good indicator is the length of our hair. Guys, consider yourselves lucky—unless you choose to spend a couple years living out of your van, you probably don’t have long, luscious hair.

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