Beautiful vibrant red sandstone, smooth deep pocketed huecos, soft powdery red sand and endless rock walls in every direction, see why climbing in Red Rock is one of America’s top climbing destinations!
Whether you are looking for multiple pitches of trad, crushing it bouldering or sending a crux sport climbing, Red Rock has something for every climber’s imagination.
Red Rock celebrated its 25th year of legal climbing access this past week. Home to a dozen climbing areas, each one has countless crags containing tens of hundreds of routes to explore. In the past 25 years there has been an extensive amount of climbing routes established with more still being cultivated and discovered!
With so many options, where does a climber start climbing in Red Rock?
Well first thing you will notice coming to Nevada and Red Rock is that the sun can be quite strong!
Welcome to The Black Corridor, located in the Second Pull out area of Red Rock, a must go to crag for your Red Rock climbing trip! Home to 70+ foot walls on each side, it conveniently provides shade and protection from wind for the majority of the day. This crag is broken up into 2 parts (Upper & Lower level) and contains over 40 sport climbing routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.11c. So if the skill level of your climbing party varies, there are a decent spread of climbing grades to cut your teeth on!
There are a number of classic routes within The Black Corridor that should definitely be on that tick list of yours! We are going to point out 3 specific routes within the Black Corridor starting with 2 in the Upper level. A quick important tip when climbing in the upper level, DO NOT DROP ANYTHING that is smaller than a softball! The floor of this section is a stack of boulders almost 20ft high and if something falls into those cracks there is a really good chance that’s where it will stay so keep everything in your bags and zipped!
The first route is called “A Rebel without a Pause,” a 5.11a route located in the back right corner of the upper level.
This beautiful 40-50ft overhung route has a sustained series of shallow huecos forcing you to keep it moving along its crimps, jugs, slopers and underclings. The 4 bolt journey to the anchors will definitely make your heart race! As the route name conveys it’s a “Rebel without a pause“.
The 2nd classic route to explore within the Black Corridor is the 75 foot route “757 2×4.″ This 5.7 sport route is extremely fun and is located right at the dividing point of the upper & lower levels. It brings you high up over the corridor and gives you a phenomenal view of everything and everyone climbing below. This route’s name is derived from the “7″ bolts up a “5.7″ grade climb. The “2×4″ was added because a 2×4 was used as a stabilizing/side anchor when the route was first bolted..
As the name implies, the Black Corridor has compressed weathered sandstone, giving it a very dark and almost black shade. When this shell-like layer of stone breaks off the wall, it exposes the deep red sandstone beneath it. This contrast in color of the rock makes for a unique experience while climbing this route.
The lower level of Black Corridor is a little thinner and unlike the boulder stacked upper. It is flat with a mostly sand floor. You will notice that one side of the wall will be a tall slab of crimp/pocket climbing and the other side will be over hung with just huecos galore! This is one of the greatest features of climbing in Red Rock.
Our 3rd classic we recommend taking a burn on is the 5.9 route “Bonaire.” This 80 foot “slabby” climb is a blast for the technical climber who enjoys a bit of balance in their movement. As you can see above, the opening of Bonaire starts as a 20ft face climb of pad size crimps and toe nub smears.
Once you are past the face of the climb you find yourself on the slab section. Keep your focus and your eyes open. The holds on this route are there as long as you can find them. If not, the route can get interesting! Climbing on this sandstone may feel grippy, but twist your toes one too many times and you’ll find yourself taking a ride. Mel Riviera found his heart skipping a beat while pulling rope to make the clip!
In every direction you look, you will find a stunning vista. Whether it’s the stone that you are climbing, the mountains you see in the distance or simply the plants beside your feet, the scenery in Red Rock is incredibly beautiful. Sport Climbing in Red Rock is a trip worth taking, the Black Corridor is just the tip of the iceberg!
Have you been sport climbing in Red Rock? Share with us your favorite route in the comments below!
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