Training for Ice Climbing Season

Roes - Ice Climbing
Written by Ben Carlson of Furnace Industries

Fifteen feet above my last screw, the ice turns to complete shit. Unconsolidated, candled, air-filled, de-laminated mush. No way this crap is gonna take a good stick. I can see the water trickling behind the flow on this late season WI5. The rope hangs from my harness, clear of the ice. Checking in on my placements, I have one mega placement at shoulder level. Hips close to the ice, standing tall, I can feel the back of my ax pressing on my chest. Good feet. Swinging my one tool at the mush, an unsettling crack slams through the icicle just below my feet rattling my nerves and shaking my confidence. A drip of sweat on the tip of my nose. Breathing regains control. Forearms beginning to burn, working my feet up on the front points of my crampons – a little higher, a little higher still – I need to reach what looks like decent ice just out of reach above the mush and get another screw. Reaching. Reaching higher.

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Climbing with Long Hair – 5 ways to deal

Climbing with Long hair
Matt Farrell took this photo of Jenifer Lavelle as she was bouldering “Crackhouse” an 85 ft V8/5.13 problem in Moab, UT

There are accomplishments and feats that set women apart from men, and aside from our good bits, a good indicator is the length of our hair. Guys, consider yourselves lucky—unless you choose to spend a couple years living out of your van, you probably don’t have long, luscious hair.

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Time to Climb America Tour: Melvin “Sloth” Rivera

Melvin Rivera on the Time to Climb America Tour in Bishop California

Hailing from the Silk-City streets of Paterson, NJ this climber has been grabbing plastic & stone for over 4 years now. Whether it be his local go-to spot in the Gunks of NY state, taking a drive up to Rumney, NH or flying out to Red Rock and Bishop. See what motivates this “Joe-Schmo” climber to be crushing V7s and 5.12s outside.

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